Pulque’s advocates, it turns out, are right: the pale elixir that Gomez served that morning bore no resemblance to the pulque I’d tasted in town. ario Gomez leaned past the razor-edged rosette of a towering agave and deep into its wide-open heart, where a pool of clear, sweet sap—called aguamiel, or “honey water”—had collected overnight. The train station is now a small city museum, administered by former journalist Miguel Ángel Orgáz, whose whole office shudders every time the cargo train trundles past. “They visit me.”. Andy nodded and poured two more glasses. When the baby spat up, as babies do, we all laughed and raised our glasses and toasted in tipsy unison. I asked Andy if he ever went to any of the Mexico City pulquerías. Apan. Watch Queue Queue According to Orgáz, the Mexican Revolution (1910 to 1920) marked the beginning of the end, as cargo trains started carrying arms instead of pulque, and Apan’s pulque dons, all friends of the dictatorship, were driven into exile. “You have to find its face because that’s the door to its heart.”. As we stood in the doorway of the shed, Gomez smiled expectantly, another deep crease in his small, wrinkled face, and poured a long, lustrous stream of pulque into the severed end of an agave leaf, which had been bent into the shape of a bowl. The municipality covers an area of 346.9 km². As of 2005, the municipality had a total population of 39,247.[1].
“They visit, Can We Really Eat Invasive Species into Submission. Cuentan que el pulque de Apan, allá por la década de 1920, era ya toda una tradición.
2,468 m (8,097 ft) Population (2005) • Total: 39,247: Time zone: UTC-6 • Summer : UTC-5 Overview. In Chimalpa which is located 10 minutes from Apan transport is taken to go to the other farm pulque, the Ex Hacienda de San Antonio Tochatlaco, Hacienda Ocotepec is only 5 min of Apan. Mexico City, then home to just 500,000 people, had more than 1,000 pulquerías, ranging from lowly country hovels to elegant cantinas that advertised their product as Pulque Fino de Apan, or “Fine Pulque from Apan.” Guerrero described this as “Mexico’s first denomination of origin, though, of course,” he said, “it wasn’t called that.”, These days, there are barely 100 pulquerías for Mexico City’s 25 million inhabitants, and Apan is a squat, dust-washed shadow of its former self.
It is a center for the production of pulque and for the sport of charrería, or Mexican rodeo . In Mexico’s capital, pulque is in the midst of a small-scale revival, riding the same wave of nostalgia that, less than a decade ago, transformed mezcal from tequila’s poor-country cousin to a metonym for Mexico’s culinary ascendency. “No,” he said matter-of-factly.
And, of course, pulque gets you drunk. Watch Queue Queue. “No,” he said matter-of-factly. “There used to be tons of rules in pulquerías,” Orgáz said.
“When I was a child, you would see kids running around eating their tacos and frijol and with their cups of pulque,” Gomez said. Villages surrounding the imperial capital used it to pay tribute to their Aztec overlords, and when Moctezuma sent emissaries from the capital to the coast to greet Hernán Cortés, he sent jugs of pulque along with gold, jade and the sacred headdress of Quetzalcoatl. Ask most people to describe the drink and you’ll likely hear words like “spit,” “snot” or, simply, “terrible.” Those who defend it will tell you that, because it ferments naturally, pulque gets exponentially better the closer you are to its source, which is why I’d come to Gomez’s farm in the plains of Apan, an agricultural valley northeast of Mexico City that, for centuries, was the center of all pulque production. I asked Andy if he ever went to any of the Mexico City pulquerías.
Large-scale pulque production has moved wholesale to the neighboring states of Tlaxcala and Mexico or to the hillsides of Singuilucan, in Hidalgo, to the north, but none of these places, Orgáz told me, produce at the scale or quality that Apan did at its peak. Media related to Apan Municipality at Wikimedia Commons, Last edited on 30 September 2019, at 18:56, Instituto Nacional para el Federalismo y el Desarrollo Municipal, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Apan&oldid=918886845, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 30 September 2019, at 18:56. He said that these days, young people drink pulque “not for tradition, but for nostalgia.” I said that’s better than not drinking it at all.
Eventually, I said it was time for me to go, but Orgáz just waggled his finger and smiled. We watched the customers come and go, some sitting for a drink, others filling plastic bottles to take home for later; some older, some barely old enough drink; all of them respectably sober. Apan is a city and one of the 84 municipalities of Hidalgo, in central-eastern Mexico. Orgáz downed his first glass in two big gulps and told me—a sly, youthful smile revealing silver-capped teeth under a lustrous handlebar mustache—that pulque is not meant for sipping. Corona’s famous clear bottles were designed to show off the product’s contrasting purity.
When the government, allied with the beer companies, froze pulque prices, pulquerías had to find ways to stretch their product. Pulque Plains - Definitely One of the Best Places to Visit in Apan, Outputs in the Main Plaza of Apan. As one tlachiquero told me, “Pulque is a different kind of drunk. 902 likes. I’d tasted the sour, opaque drink before at pulquerías in Mexico City, where fiberglass barrels hold gallons of pastel-colored curados (the term for flavored pulques) stained pink or yellow or green by sugary purées of fruits and vegetables. Roman Acosta, a third-generation tlachiquero in the nearby Mezquital Valley, is one of 43 children sired by his 93-year-old father who, he told me, “is the leader of pulque for the state—and still has a girlfriend.” Pulque’s reputation for increasing longevity even drew the attention of Hubert Schonger, a Nazi filmmaker who, in 1938, made a short documentary on the drink for the death-obsessed Führer. There was the cruzada, where you would cross arms with another drinker, down your glass, shake hands, embrace and shout, ‘salud.’ Miss a toast, and you’d be sent to the corner to chug what remained in your glass. Change ), As the afternoon wore on, Orgáz and I talked about Mexico City, where he’d lived for years after the ’85 earthquake, and how much it’s changed. Plan your trip to Apan. Post-Revolution presidents campaigned against all things indigenous—including pulque—as a barrier to modernity, and radical land reform in the 1920s and ‘30s broke up the haciendas into smaller plots, making industrial production impossible. Hidalgo: Municipal seat: Apan: Area • Total: 346.9 km 2 (133.9 sq mi) Elevation. “It’s only when the maguey asks that you can open it,” Gomez told me, a process that some tlachiqueros refer to as “castrating” the maguey.
It was an important site in the War of Independence (1810-1821). Every lapse, however small, was punishable with a fresh round. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. At its peak, there were about 300 pulque haciendas. Once open, the maguey will secrete up to 40 liters of aguamiel per day over the course of three to four months. The cost of transport to go Chimalpa the Ex Hacienda de San Antonio Tochatlaco is $ 1.5 usd, Filadelfia No. Quality, predictably, declined. He said that these days, young people drink pulque “not for tradition, but for nostalgia.” I said that’s better than not drinking it at all. El tren llegaba cada mañana a la ciudad de México con pulque fresco que se servía en las mejores mesas de la sociedad porfiriana, al igual que en el campo, cuando las mujeres llevaban el “itacate”, siempre acompañado de un jarrito de esta euforizante bebida. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account.
For 26 years, Don Andy has served the best curados in Apan (and maybe in all of Mexico) from this painted cubbyhole of a bar, which is barely more than two low plywood tables and a pair of bar stools built from rebar and old oven doors. Pulque, I was told, can cure diabetes and clear up stomach bugs and (naturally) make a man more virile. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Get to know us we are Experts in Mexico.
This video is unavailable. By then, we’d left the museum and crossed town for a drink at Pulquería Don Andy, named for its proprietor Andrés “Andy” Ávila, a short, soft-spoken man built, it seems, entirely of curves. :D Apan, La Charreria Y El Pulque. Though it clocks in at about 4 percent alcohol, it also continues to ferment in your stomach, producing a distinctive sneak-attack high that, at its best, borders on euphoria. I smiled, licked a glaze of pulque from my lips and held the leaf out for more, like a traveling mendicant. When Gomez first started cutting maguey 70 years ago, the fields of Apan were still known as el mar verde de maguey, or “the green sea of agave,” dotted with grand haciendas complete with their own hospitals, schools and chapels, some of them home to 1,000 tlachiqueros. Some still remain in the plains of Apan and Zempoala, in Hidalgo. According to Raúl Guerrero, a journalist and historian in the nearby Hidalgo state capital of Pachuca, by the end of the century, taxes on pulque accounted for 28 percent of all federal tax revenue. Find amazing things to do and places where to go and travel in Apan, . things To Do in Wine will make you vomit and give you a headache, but not pulque.” I can say with 100 percent certainty that this is 50 percent true: it’s a different kind of drunk, for sure, but it will absolutely give you a headache. Esta pagina fue creada con el fin de dar a conocer cualquier cosa que ustedes nos puedan ayudar a compartir, con debido respeto y responsabilidad ! They never got sick.”.
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